Me parece que por allá de 1999 0 el 2000, estuve tratando de conseguir un motor St .75 para un primo que es mi mancuerna. Y a donde lo solicitaba me decian lo mismo, Proximamente estarán en el mercado de nuevo.
Estuvo detenida la producción de los motores Super Tigre Italianos en tanto trasladaban su fábrica a China.
Tengo un Cuarentita ( .40 ) MADE IN ITALY, y tiene mas de 20 años, obviamente no es el único motor que tengo. Son una maravilla cuando lo carburas adecuadamente.
casi todos los que hay en el campo ahora son MADE IN CHINA ...Pero con los controles de calidad de Super Tigre no hay diferencia..Son muy buenos.
Cómpralo con toda confianza....
Los de anillo tardan mas en asentarse pero duran mucho mas y cuando este gastadito le cambias el anillo y listo.
Los de ABC se asientan mas rápido y pronto estas en el aire ,, sin gastar tanto combustible en asentarlo. Es cuestion de gusto.
Unos datos para carburar bien a continuación.
All Super Tigre R/C engines are now fitted with MAG series throttles which are easy to adjust, reliable in use and capable of very low tickover, combined with good pick-up.
The carburettor has two needle valves fitted-
No. 1 is the high speed adjustment.
No. 2 the slow speed mixture control and
No. 3 is the throttle stop which controls the low speed r.p.m. See Fig. 1.
To set up this carburettor it is useful to have a short piece of clean fuel pipe handy to blow through. Firstly, the idle needle has been factory set and should only need minor adjustment for correct setting. So don't loose the original setting before running. The low speed setting is controlled mainly by the throttle stop and not the idle needle, which is only used to set the mixture.
It is best to adjust either the throttle stop or servo travel in the slow position, so that the amount of opening is approximately the diameter of a modelling pin. Now fit the fuel tube to the fuel inlet nipple and set the high speed needle 2 1/2 turns open from the fully closed position. Now close the throttle and whilst gently blowing through the tube, establish the setting of the idle needle where air just starts to escape.
The correct idle setting will now be 1/2 turn open from this point. Bear in mind if you change the position of the throttle stop, you will have to reset the idle needle. Use very slight adjustments at a time (1/16th of a turn or less for final adjustment). As a check on settings, if you, whilst still blowing through the tube, open the throttle, you will find a rapid change in air flow when the arm has moved about 15 Deg. from the slow position. When pinching the fuel line with the engine at idle, the engine should first run a bit faster before slowing down because of fuel starvation. In cases where poor transition occurs when opening throttle, a variation in the mixture strength can be obtained by rotating the fuel inlet spray bar so that the fuel pipe nipple is pointing at the front engine fixing hole in the mounting lugs. This rotation brings the slit in the spray bar towards the front and will richen the transition mixture and vice versa. This rotation is only documented in this series instructions, and is omitted in later versions. It seems that clockwise rotation slightly richens the transition and anti-clockwise rotations leans the transition. Sometimes it works, but not all the time; I never used it and point the nipple at the rear of the fixing lug.
We recommended the use of idle bar plug on R/C engines and the cold type elements suit these motors best. Good results have been achieved with OS-F and OS #8 and Enya #3 plugs.
The situation you are trying to achieve is to have a normal mixture setting at the desirable idle r.p.m. Don't use the idle needle to make a deliberately rich mixture in order to slow the tick over. If you need to reduce the idle, then close the drum further and readjust the mixture by unscrewing the idle needles lightly.
Espero sirva de algo....
Saludos afectuosos desde Mérida, Yucatán, México